Russia-women-love
The show was Balenciaga ’s version of workplace clothes for the 21st century. And from the service personnel at the entrance, in sweaters slashed with a graphic line, to the I.T. department, in serviceable jumpsuits, the result was a faultless parade from a fantastic futurist.
The endless search for how to dress a modern woman is the subject of this winter 2012 Paris season. And although designers are umbilically linked to their own pasts, embracing the spirit of now is essential.
At the Balenciaga show, models came out in the high-in-the-sky penthouse area wearing wool coats with bright lapels over filmy dresses made decent by shorts, looking like bad girls who had just come into the office after a night of clubbing.
Yet they still seemed as purposeful as their deskbound sisters, who walked by in more of those sculpted coats, a sturdy leather bag on the shoulder or a folder (surely containing an iPad) in hand. Even the shoes looked fit for work: some laced-up as if morphed from a sneaker.
“My vision of an office — a mega-enterprise and how I imagine business dressing in my way,” the designer Nicolas Ghesquière said to explain his mission.
Backstage, François Pinault, accompanying his son François-Henri and daughter-in-law Salma Hayek, admired what he called the dominant ‘’Yves Klein blue.” (The younger Pinault replaced his father as chief executive of PPR, owner of Balenciaga.)
The clothes were so practical and effective (give or take a sci-fi print, as if from a retro video game), that it was easy to overlook the fact that each item, from A-line skirt to high-waist pants, had been refreshed. That meant a use of shiny fabric for the loose trousers or rounded jackets crafted in what looked like a bonded weave.
Mr. Ghesquière said that he had, in fact, divided the working woman categories into lawyer, banker and even spy for those sci-fi tops. That seemed a brave move in a world where such lofty professions are currently despised.
But perhaps the designer’s message was not just to send out stylish, vigorous and streamlined clothes that could genuinely be worn by females at the top — but to suggest that if women ruled the world, it might be a better place.
A Fabergé egg given by Richard Burton to Elizabeth Taylor triggered a Russia-women-love collection at Balmain . The designer Olivier Rousteing has such a succulent view of the 1980s, loving every bit of flash and sparkle, every wide shoulder and purposeful, booted stride in slim pants.
Not since Gianni Versace rocked the baroque has there been so much sex-charged glitter and grandeur under a the gilded curlicue of a hotel ballroom.
But on the runway, Mr. Rousteing has a fresher take on glamour than gilt to the max. His vision was seeded with pearls. They glimmered from wide-shoulder tunics that were worked in dense embroidery, perhaps inset, Russian-style, with a cross-stitch panel of a rose.
A more masculine vision had velvet pants and jackets embossed as if on leather. Those tight pants, brief hemlines and an Angelina Jolie-style split skirt meant that Balmain kept its body-conscious image, but moved it from club to palace.
Toughening up this view of imperial Russia and Hollywood royalty (a few of the Liz Taylor diamonds twinkled through as crystals) was a military theme, with gilt buttons on tailored outfits.
Mr. Rousteing, finishing his first year at the house, is making a good job of keeping up Balmain’s maximal look. And his subject should be a big hit with the oligarch wife clientele.
At Carven , the theme was medieval — yet it looked fresh and contemporary. To make modernity out of the Middle Ages sounds like a mission impossible. But the rich tapestries patterning simple outfits, the tracery of mullioned windows as laced velvet and Hieronymus Bosch paintings printed as casually as if on a T-shirt made a Carven collection that was light, graceful and intriguing.
The designer Guillaume Henry has a real feel for fresh French style, as worn by innocent-looking maidens with loosely waved hair. Perched on their platform shoes, they had an almost fairy tale quality that made even the transparent lace dresses seem innocent.
“The Middle Ages for now,” Mr. Henry said backstage. He might have added: but not for the middle-aged. This designer is bringing a youthful touch to an old, established brand and the meld of his Parisian spirit with Flemish painting and rich colors like burnt orange, violet and blue made a heady cocktail of modern youth.
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